How to Wear Kain Pelikat Properly: 5 Styles for Men

Kain pelikat is a single tube of cloth, sewn closed at both ends. There is no button, no belt and, on most pieces, no zip. Everything that holds the cloth at your waist is the tie. A correct tie lasts all day; a loose one slips within ten minutes of walking.

This guide shows five ways to wear kain pelikat. Four are worn at the waist, shoulder or head. The fifth is how to fold the cloth so it stays straight in the wardrobe. We wear all of these ourselves at our shop in Setapak, Kuala Lumpur.

First: pick the right size and cloth

An adult kain pelikat measures roughly 110 cm tall and 180 cm around. That fits most adults. Cloth long enough to pass the ankle gets stepped on. Cloth that is too short leaves too little fabric to turn over at the waist.

• Adult size: take the full 110 cm piece. The teen size is shorter and narrower.
• New cloth: wash it once before wearing. Factory starch makes it stiff and the tie slips.
• A lower thread count is lighter and better in heat. A higher thread count is thicker and hangs more neatly.
• Check the side seam. A tight seam means the cloth holds its shape after many washes.

5 ways to wear kain pelikat

1. 1

   The everyday roll tie

   Step inside the tube and stand straight. Pull the cloth back until it sits flat at the waist. Pull the front out until it is taut, then take the right edge across your body to the left and the left edge across to the right so they overlap. Roll the overlapping top edge inward two or three turns, down to navel level. Press the roll down. This is the most common tie and the most secure one for prayer, housework and sleep.

2. 2

   The knot tie, for heavy work

   Start as with the roll tie, but do not roll. Instead tie the two overlapping edges into a single knot at the front, slightly left of centre. Tuck the knot ends into the waistband. It looks less tidy than the roll, but it will not come undone while you squat, lift or ride a motorcycle.

3. 3

   Sampin for baju melayu

   Fold the cloth to half its height so it becomes two layers. Wrap it at the waist over the baju melayu trousers, with the overlap at the front. Unmarried men wear the hem higher, above the knee. Married men wear it lower, below the knee. Square the front fold so the pattern lines fall straight.

4. 4

   Shoulder drape

   Open the cloth fully and fold it lengthways to about 30 cm wide. Lay it over the left shoulder, front end falling to waist level and back end slightly longer. This is worn to the mosque, to feasts, and at night when the air turns cool.

5. 5

   Head wrap (simple tengkolok)

   Fold the cloth lengthways to about 15 cm wide. Place the middle of the fold on your forehead, take both ends behind the head and cross them. Bring them forward again and tie a single knot to the right of the forehead. Tuck the spare ends into the wrap. Use a high thread count piece: thicker cloth holds the shape better.

How to fold kain pelikat so it does not crease

Most creases in kain pelikat come from how it is stored, not from how it is worn. These four steps keep the pattern lines straight.

• Lay the cloth flat on a bed with the side seams stacked exactly on top of each other.
• Smooth it with your palm from the centre outwards, pushing the air out.
• Fold in half lengthways, then in thirds across. Avoid folding in quarters: the crease line then lands down the middle of the front when worn.
• Store it flat, not hanging. A hanger stretches the cloth at one point and leaves a mark.

Common mistakes

• Tying too loosely. The cloth should sit tight on the waist, not on the hips.
• Rolling too little. One turn is not heavy enough to hold the cloth.
• Wearing it damp. Wet cotton expands, and the tie loosens as it dries.
• Ironing straight on full heat. Iron at medium heat and from the inside, so the colour does not go shiny.
• Washing it with dyes that run. Wash dark kain pelikat separately for the first two or three washes.

How long does a kain pelikat last?

A cotton kain pelikat worn twice a week and washed properly lasts three to five years. A higher thread count means a tighter weave, and a tight weave thins more slowly where it rubs. If you wear kain pelikat daily, keep three and rotate them. Cloth that rests a day between wearings lasts far longer.